PAD London will offer a full range of contemporary jewelery
PAD London is returning to a live format after two years of online-only operations. One of the main attractions at this year’s show is a world-class selection of unique jewelry created by master jewelers, contemporary artists and designers from around the world. The contemporary design fair will take place from October 10 to 16 in Berkeley Square, in the Mayfair district of London.
The fair will feature works by emerging and lesser-known jewelry designers, as well as new pieces created especially for the occasion. Pushing the boundaries of art, some of the jewelry on display has been created using pioneering digital technologies and unconventional materials, while others are the result of timeless craftsmanship and a sustainable approach to creation. Many pieces also testify to the power of jewelry and its ability, like any form of art, to question today’s society. These include one-of-a-kind creations by the late American jeweler Terry Castro who put black jewelry designers in the spotlight and challenged stereotypes throughout his career.
Valery Demure, founder of the online site Objet d’Emotion and of the Marylebone, a London gallery of the same name, will present designers known from around the world, including the designer of pearls of Greek origin, Melanie Georgacopoulos, the Italian designer Francesca Villa, Parisian jeweller. Emmanuelle Zysman, Brazilian-born designer Yael Sonia, lawyer-turned-jeweler Ioanna Souflia and Ghanaian-Chinese designer Melinda Zeman.
Demure will also present the Indian jeweler Moksh whose creations have never been shown in Europe. Inspired by Mughal jewelry, the jeweler creates well-crafted pieces that combine technology, engineering and traditional techniques, such as the precise gold filigree found in the jaali work of art from Jodhpur, patented micro-bead weaving and diamond tapered and calibrated baguette cut. setting.
Elisabetta Cipriani, whose eponymous London gallery specializes in wearable art, has also championed new talent for many years. The gallery will showcase the work of young British goldsmith Joy BC whose politically charged pieces inspired by ancient Greece explore the stories of forgotten female heroes. Among them, a recycled 22-carat yellow gold ring representing Hypatia, a Greek philosopher and mathematician who became a symbol of women’s rights in the 20th century.
Maria Sole Ferragamo, founder of SO-LE STUDIO, creates jewelry made from scrap materials, such as leather scraps and brass shavings. Ferragamo collaborates with Cipriani for PAD by creating four limited edition pieces in recycled brass, including Nautilus, a pair of palladium-plated brass earrings with blue varnish.
Other independent contemporary jewelers at the fair include Swiss-born jewelry designer Cora Sheibani and artist-jeweler Eliane Fattal.
wearable contemporary art
Cipriani will also unveil a new project at the fair: Salvia, her second collaboration with Italian artist Giuseppe Penone. Together they created an 18k gold ring depicted as a sage leaf with a musical note. The design is limited to 10 pieces. Cipriani’s other collaborations at PAD London are with Greek sculptor Sophia Vari and Italian artist Giorgio Vigna.
The sudden death in July of prolific and popular contemporary jewelry artist, Terry Castro, known simply as Castro, has shocked the jewelry world. He was loved by the jewelry community for his groundbreaking designs as a black artist and for his outgoing personality. Eight of his greatest unique creations will be unveiled at PAD by Carpenters Workshop Jewellery. Blending animal and human forms and invoking African and medieval influences, these miniature sculptures adorned with fancy-colored diamonds, gemstones and precious metals required hundreds of hours of craftsmanship. Among them is The Falcon Crest pendant, made of antique porcelain and decorated with emeralds and diamonds (top photo).
Carpenters Workshop Jewelery will also feature jewelry designs by several other significant contemporary artists, including Cindy Sherman, Rashid Johnson and Robert Longo. These collaborations are presented in partnership with the American jewelry brand LizWorks.
High jewelry occupies a prominent place at the show. Among the exhibitors, the famous London jeweler David Morris will present several new pieces created on the occasion of his 60th birthday. Among them are a pair of rare 60 carat natural pearl earrings, crafted with vibrant pink diamonds and briolette white diamonds and an opal and lapis lazuli necklace with a 43.04 carat black opal. .
Indian jeweler Neha Dani, who only creates 15-20 pieces a year, will showcase her latest jewelry sculptures intricately studded with up to 3,000 gemstones. These unique bespoke colored gold and titanium creations are inspired by the jeweler’s Indian heritage, travels around the world, as well as natural and organic forms (petals, waves, galaxies, feathers). Among the pieces on display is the Aialik cuff, which features custom-cut blue moonstones set in 18-karat gold and diamonds.
British jeweler Glenn Spiro returns with a selection of his creations, many of which are new, including a 47.44-carat multi-coloured ridged agate and a 5.01-carat D-shaped marquise and diamond ring inside immaculate, surrounded by black ebony.
Swiss fine jewelry house Boghossian will unveil its one-of-a-kind creations in an exhibition space inspired by the historic Silk Road and celebrating the 154-year history of the sixth-generation jewelry house. A testament to the brand’s design methods, the offering features rare gemstones cut in intricate shapes and floating diamonds in invisible settings. Highlights include a pair of deep yellow fancy conch pearl and diamond earrings, suspending two drop-shaped conch pearls weighing 74.24 carats and 70.63 carats and a necklace in pastel colors, set with Baguette-shaped semi-precious stones of impressive sizes, including aquamarine, pink and green tourmaline.